Pruning in the summer can NOT be avoided. Then your tree will grow out buds just below the pinched bud to make side branches. Choose buds a distance of 1 to 2 feet from where the branch begins from a larger branch. Just pinch off the tip of a new branch just above a bud. Otherwise, the branches will keep growing long and straight without side branching.įor pinching, you can easily use your fingers to snap off tips by hand. In the spring (often April), pinch your off the tips of new branches so the tree will make side branches and be shaped nicely and your fruit will be within reach. Fertilizer should only be applied between spring and mid-summer. To help make the tree hardier, do not fertilize it within 2 months of the first fall frost date or while the fruit is maturing.After the third year, add about 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer per year to the mature trees in the spring.During the second year, add 3/4 pound of nitrogen fertilizer once in the spring and once in the early summer.This encourages the roots to spread outward, rather than in on themselves. Tip: Apply fertilizer in a circle around the tree, but keep it at least 18 inches away from the trunk.About 6 weeks after planting, fertilize young trees with a balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer.Prune and fertilize to encourage 10 to 18 inches of new growth during spring and summer.If too much fruit is left on the tree, it is likely to be smaller and subpar. Thinning the fruit ensures that the tree will focus energy on the remaining fruit. About 4 to 6 weeks after the tree blooms, thin the fruit so that they are 6 to 8 inches apart on the branch. The plastic should be opened or lifted during bloom time to welcome pollinating insects, and on hot, sunny days to ventilate the tree and prevent foliage burn. This keeps the tree dry in winter, and the tree enjoys the warmth of the sun-directly and reflected off the house-year round. Plastic sheeting is attached to the eaves and draped to cover but not touch the tree, similar to a lean-to tent. Over time, the gardener prunes and trains the peach tree to espalier in a fan-shape against or very near to the wall of the house. It involves planting a peach tree-ideally a dwarf variety-on the south side of the home (or other structure), directly under the eaves. If your circumstances are suitable, you might want to try a technique practiced in England.
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